Felicity Cloake’s ” perfect” version.
Find a heatproof bowl that will sit over, but not touch, a pan of simmering water, and put that water on to boil.
Start by whisking together the egg yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl, until they turn thick and creamy.
Gradually beat in the alcohol and salt, then set the bowl over the pan and continue to whisk, scraping the base of the bowl as you go, until the whisk leaves an impression in the mixture and, when lifted up, drops a fairly solid ribbon trail on the surface of the mixture.
Remove the bowl from the pan and put on a cool surface. Keep whisking for another couple of minutes until light and frothy , then divide between bowls and serve immediately over fruit or on its own (I like a grating of nutmeg on top).