First prepare the leeks. Discard the green part, then cut each leek widthways into two, each about 10cm long, and wash.
Lay the leeks in a large, shallow pan, add the bay leaves and garlic, and pour in the wine, olive oil and water, so the leeks are half-covered in liquid.
Season, then simmer gently for anywhere between 30 minutes and an hour, turning the leeks a few times during cooking, until a knife can be inserted through the middle without any resistance.
Once tender, use a slotted spoon to transfer the leeks to a plate and set aside. Strain the liquid into a small pan and reduce over a high heat until you are left with two tablespoons of sauce.
Remove from the heat, add the onion, currants, vinegar and sugar, and season. Set aside so the onion and currants soften in the residual heat while you finish off the leeks.
Heat the sunflower oil in a large frying pan and fry the leek pieces for a couple of minutes a side, until lightly golden. Place on a plate and leave to cool to room temperature.
To serve, divide the leeks between four plates. Top with small chunks of goat’s curd, followed by the onion and currant dressing, and finish with a scattering of chervil.